Beginner's Guide
Everything you need to know to start raising chickens in Quebec
📋 In this guide
Why raise chickens?
Fresh eggs every morning, an orange yolk that actually tastes like something — that's often the spark. But raising chickens is so much more: it's having a direct connection to what you eat, reducing food waste, and honestly... it's fun. Chickens have personality.
Before you start, here are the honest questions to ask yourself:
Do you have permission?
Many Quebec municipalities allow backyard chickens (usually 3–4 max, no roosters). Check your city's bylaw first.
Do you have the time?
About 10–15 minutes a day to feed, water and collect eggs. Plus time for weekly maintenance.
Do you have the budget?
The coop is the biggest upfront investment. After that, costs are mainly feed — about $15–20 per month for 3–4 chickens.
Are you ready for winter?
In Quebec, winter is the real test. The right breeds and a good coop make all the difference.
Choosing your breed
In Quebec, forget tropical or ultra-specialized breeds. What you want is a hardy breed that handles winter without issues and lays regularly. Heritage breeds are exactly that — selected for generations for our conditions.
Chantecler
The only chicken breed created in Canada, in the early 20th century, specifically for our winters. Very small comb (low frostbite risk), dense tight plumage. Calm temperament, excellent layer even in winter. The #1 choice for Quebec.
Sussex
Excellent layer, very calm temperament and easy to tame — perfect for families with children. Adapts well to Quebec cold. A great all-purpose breed for beginners.
Plymouth Rock
Known for consistent laying even in cold seasons. Hardy, easy to manage, good for beginners. The Barred Plymouth Rock (black and white striped) is the most popular.
How many to get?
Chickens are social animals — never fewer than 3. For a family of 4 consuming about a dozen eggs a week, 3 to 4 hens are more than enough in season.
Setting up your coop
The coop is the most important investment. Do it right from the start — you'll use it for years. The essential criteria:
Minimum space
0.4 m² per hen inside. 1 m² per hen in the outdoor run. Too small = stress and disease.
Nesting boxes
1 nesting box for 3–4 hens. About 30×30 cm. Dark, quiet spot, slightly raised from the floor.
Roosts
15–20 cm per hen, wooden (never metal, too cold in winter). Height 40–60 cm from the floor.
Ventilation
Critical even in winter! Humidity is enemy #1. High ventilation, without direct drafts on the hens.
Security
Foxes, raccoons, minks, weasels... Solid wire mesh (14 gauge minimum), bury fencing 30 cm underground.
Orientation
South-facing windows to catch winter sun. Outdoor run ideally south-facing too.
Common beginner mistake
Building too small thinking 3 chickens don't need much space. Hens spend a lot of time inside in winter — a space that's too small creates stress, conflict, and disease.
The arrival of chicks
Day-old chicks are fragile. The first weeks are the most critical — heat is essential to their survival.
Set up the brooder 24h in advance
A cardboard box or plastic bin with bedding (wood shavings — never cedar). Set up the heat source and verify the temperature reaches 35°C before the chicks arrive.
Introduce each chick to water
As soon as they arrive, gently dip each chick's beak in water. This teaches them to drink — not always an automatic instinct.
Read their behaviour
All huddled together = too cold. All spread to the edges away from heat = too hot. Active and spread evenly = perfect.
Lower the temperature gradually
Reduce by about 3°C per week. By 6–8 weeks, depending on the season, they generally no longer need supplemental heat.
| Age | Target temperature | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Week 1 | 35°C | Critical — watch constantly |
| Week 2 | 32°C | Starts exploring more |
| Week 3 | 29°C | First feathers visible |
| Week 4 | 26°C | Well-feathered on the back |
| Week 5 | 23°C | Almost independent |
| Week 6+ | Ambient | Can move to the coop (depending on season) |
Feeding
Commercial feed covers 90% of needs — that's the main thing. The rest is fresh water at all times and a few treats in moderation.
0–8 weeks: Starter
Starter feed (18–20% protein). Fine texture for small beaks. Available at all times.
8–18 weeks: Grower
Grower feed (16–18% protein). Bone and muscle development.
18+ weeks: Layer
Layer feed (16% protein + calcium). Add free-choice oyster shells for shell strength.
Good extras
Vegetables, fruits, table scraps (no salt or fat), earthworms, insects. Max 10% of the diet. Hens love watermelon in summer and cabbage in winter.
Never give
Avocado, chocolate, raw onions, rhubarb, raw beans, green potatoes, large amounts of salt, mouldy bread. These foods can be toxic or even fatal.
Surviving the Quebec winter
This is where many beginners panic. The good news: with the right breeds and a good coop, hens do very well. They're tougher than you'd think.
Insulation yes, heating no
A well-insulated coop is more than enough for heritage breeds. Heating creates dependency and represents a serious fire risk.
Water — absolute priority
An electric heated waterer ($15–25) is the best winter investment. Otherwise, change water 2–3 times a day minimum.
Deep litter
Add bedding on top instead of changing it all out. Natural decomposition generates heat — simple and effective method.
Artificial light
Hens need 14–16 hours of light to lay. Add morning light with a timer to maintain laying in winter.
Always ventilate
Even at -30°C, never fully close the coop. Accumulated humidity causes far more damage than cold.
More calories
In winter, give whole grains in the evening (cracked corn, oats). Digestion generates body heat overnight.
Watch for frostbite
Large-comb breeds (Leghorn, etc.) are vulnerable to frostbite on the comb. This is one more reason to choose the Chantecler, which has a tiny comb specifically designed for our winters.
A question? We're here. 🐔
This guide covers the essentials, but every flock is different. Don't hesitate to write to us!
Contact us →